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Teton guide makes 7 summits in 8 months. Jackson Hole News. March 14, 2001

Mountain Guide Jim Williams has completed a novel achievement in his profession – guiding clients to the highest peak on each of the world’s seven continents in a year.
“It’s not about me,” he said about the guiding craft. “The point is to guide members of an expedition safely to the summit and home.” Williams said he wasn’t obsessed with the venture either. “Each mountain stood by itself”, and had to be dealt with on its own terms, he said. “The goal is still to guide people, to get the guiding done first.

Williams summits Everest. Jackson Hole Guide. May 31, 2000

Williams, 45, was the climbing leader of the Inventa Everest 2000 Environmental Expedition made up of 40 Sherpas and a 10-member climbing team. Nine Sherpas and three climbers, including Williams, reached the summit in sometimes treacherous weather conditions.

Al Read, president of Jackson-based Exum Mountain Guides, said that Williams’ actions on Everest are indicative of his professionalism, evidenced also by the times he has turned back from the summit to guard his clients’ safety.

“He’s constantly looking after his clients,” Read said. We can give Jim easy assignments or high risk climbs and he does them equally well.”

The Norman’s Conquest, Adventure, July/August 2000 By Geoffrey Norman

A Father and his 21 year old daughter’s climb up Aconagua, the highest mountain outside of Asia, the second highest of the seven summits at 22,835 feet with Jim Williams as their guide and Matt Goewert as his assistant.

A Couple of hours later, the sun came up. And not long after that, Williams stopped the group until everyone caught up. It was time to make final, merciless assessments. Williams had explained the day before that he would give everyone the best possible chance to summit. But nobody was coming down the mountain in the dark or spending the night in the open. He did not have a fixed turnaround time, but he’d know when it came, and there would be no arguments. Williams had once turned a client around 300 feet from the top of Everest, giving up his own chance at the summit. In two weeks, I had developed complete respect for him as a leader.

Marmot Fall/Winter 2001

As of Feb 18th, 2001 Jim Williams successfully guided the Seven Summits of the World in less than one year. It is believed that this makes him the first mountain guide to lead clients to the summit of each of the highest peaks in every continent within the span of one year.

Jim Williams, owner of Professional Mountain Guides in Jackson, Wyoming and member of the Marmot Design Board, successfully guided the Seven Summits (Mt. Everest, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Mt Elbrus, Kosciusko, Mt. Vinson, and Aconagua) in eight months and twenty-five days.

NEWS & VIEWS BY Sheelah Gullion

In Guides we must trust When you pay someone to steer you through the unknown, you’re placing your trust in their experience-and hoping you never need to test it

Synopsis
Discusses the extent of the guide’s responsibility while leading their clients. Article written in response to a canyoning tragedy at Interlaken, Switzerland that took the lives of 21 people (not something to put on the site, I know!)

Quote
“I personally feel that a guide has ultimate responsibility. That is to say that once a guide is hired by a client, he/she is responsible for everything that happens while they are together. This includes things that could be considered ‘out of guide’s control,’ such as heart attack, car accident or anything not directly related to the activity. The ultimate safety of the client is the guide’s responsibility.”

alpineascents.com

JIM WILLIAMS
SENIOR GUIDE, INTERNATIONAL

Jim joins our guiding team with boundless credentials and is one of the most well-known guides and adventurers in America. His list of accomplishments could fill volumes as Jim is a rare breed amongst modern day explorers. From the glaciers of Pakistan to leading climbs of Everest to the ice cap of Antarctica, Jim has explored, guided and climbed new routes for the last 30 years. With a Masters in Geology/Glaciology he epitomizes the naturalist gone wild (with particular knowledge in Asia, South America and Alaska.) His name appears as a resource in guide books around the globe, Jim is an outstanding individual and mountaineering professional.  Some of his personal highlights include: the first American North-South crossing of The Patagonia Ice Cap, the first American Expedition to reach the South Pole overland, Guided First Ascent of Qui Distal Peak in Pakistan, first guided ascent of Yali Peak in Bhutan

 

 

EXPLORADUS
PO Box 4166
Jackson, WY 83002-4166
307.733.8812
pmg@atrav.com


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